Excuse Us for Living

  The Rhine 2015: Germany & France

 From Amsterdam to Basel

 October 3-October 11

 by

 Phil & Geri

             Meet Patty van Delft, photo front & center, & her cousin, Sheryldine van Velzen, next to me. Patty is a Dutch poet & novelist. Her cousin Sheryl is a university student in pre-law. Patty & I connected blogging on our websites since 2013. Geri & I planned this luncheon so we could meet for the first time. What worked best with our tight tour schedule was to get-together shortly after we arrived in Amsterdam directly from Schiphol Airport! Patty & Sheryl live in The Hague, about an hour by train from Amsterdam. Patty is well-published with two poetry books in English; My Wings & My Whisperings, available at https://petitemagique.wordpress.com/ under My Poetry Books at the top. Patty is presently completing her third novel in the series, Dragan Duma, youth fantasies, in Dutch, available at http://pattyvandelft.com/ by clicking on each book cover in the right margin. Also on that website you can scroll down many great photos of Patty “in costume” with her books & more! –Lunch at a local restaurant & talk were a very special 3-4 hours!

Map of Avalon Waterways Tour, “The Romantic Rhine”

     Excuse us for living, but wife Geri and I have been out again doing just that; i.e., doing some living, traveling through Europe as we dreamed of these forty-some years of marriage. We had done so in our younger years before we met. We     promised one-another that in retirement we would show each other places the other had not seen. On this our fifth trip to     Europe in as many years, we were going down the Rhine River on a river boat cruise. This time we were visiting places both of us had never been to before, but for one or two exceptions.

     The Rhine River was an amazing education. Embarkation was Amsterdam, the Netherlands, accessing the Rhine via the Amsterdam-Rhine Canal, on our way south, against the current, through Germany and France to Basel, Switzerland, for disembarkation. As always on such trips, what struck me first was the history, naturally, and then the architecture and the art.

Roman civilization is truly everywhere throughout western Europe. And the landscape and cities and towns along the Rhine were no exception, from ruins to aqueduct-servicing structures, to sculpture, mosaics, and more. Then, most impressive were structures remaining or rebuilt from the Middle Ages or medieval times from cathedrals to quaint homes and villages/towns/cities. – -And then, of course, the ever-present Renaissance, from the architecture of churches and buildings to the paintings and sculpture.

Over and again you hear about and see the results of the devastation and rebuilding from World War II. Actually, what survived unscathed was a small percentage in relation to the great destruction of the Allied invasion and victory over the Axis Powers. And when you are in the Alsace region of France, on the border between France and Germany in Strasbourg, and learn of that terra switching from French territory to German territory five times in the course of wars during modern history, you come away with a more profound appreciation and understanding. It is no wonder that Strasbourg, France, was chosen as today’s seat of the Council of Europe and the European Parliament.

Finally, the Rhine River is vibrant with activity as the doorway to Europe. Tourism is a major portion of this vibrant economy. But to see is to comprehend why Germany is the economic powerhouse of Europe. The banks of the Rhine thrive with natural resources, industrial plants, and energy production. And the river itself is a thoroughfare of cargo ships, seemingly paced as if on purpose not to disturb the aesthetic pleasure of the sightseers!

           It’s not a trip to Amsterdam without a photo of the Palace & Townhall on the Square called “The Dam” (that means “The Square”). And we have been here before in 2011. (I will admit to 22 days in Amsterdam over my lifetime, second only to days spent in Vietnam!)

           As we did in 2011 when we toured the Netherlands & Belgium, we were on another Avalon Waterways ship; this time the “Felicity.” The ship carries approximately 138-140 people, very fine cabins, all meals on-board in a well-appointed dining room with fine cuisine, unlimited wine & beer, & impeccable service, luxurious lounge & bar, top deck with chairs & hot tub, & the best expresso-cappuccino machine in the world located in the lounge at the stern.

        And as with our first Avalon experience, this second time around on an Avalon cruise the crew of the Felicity was top notch once again! The excellent & efficient service starts at the top. Pictured left to right are Nico, Cruise Director, Mathias, Captain, & Dirk, Hotel Manager. We got to know Nico & Dirk well. Nico is Dutch & the other two are German, characters all! – -Many laughs!

        In Cologne, Germany, it’s all about the Cathedral (& the local brew, Kolsch)! That’s the Cathedral with its two spires to our right. – -Gothic architecture, begun in 1248 & completed in 1880, largest Gothic cathedral in Germany & in all of northern Europe. Ninety percent of Cologne was destroyed during World War II, but the Allies spared the Cathedral. Cologne has 12 churches in all & is home to the original & famous cologne No. 4711!

        Geri & I stand at the foot of the grand statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I, 18^th-19^th centuries, in Koblenz. The statue marks the confluence of the Rhine & Moselle Rivers. Therefore, in Roman times Koblenz was a significant & strategic location. It was a center of trade in the Middle Ages. The Old City of Koblenz was destroyed in World War II.

The Romantic Rhine:

   The dramatic Rhine Gorge is the most beautiful stretch of the river from Koblenz to Rudesheim; castles, fortresses, 400 ft. cliffs, sloped vineyards, towns, half-timbered houses & hotels, churches, industrial barges, & cruise ships.

Marksburg Fortress, medieval

St. Goar, largest fortress

               A beautiful town along the Rhine, name unknown to us. Notice the German flag flying high!

                                              Another “show-stopper” of a castle, name unknown to us.

           Rudesheim Schloss Restaurant & their ceremonial preparation & serving of a very special coffee; with their very own brandy from their vineyard, plus sugar, lit aflame, doused out with coffee, whipped cream, & chocolate powder.

        We had the most fun of all our European trips at the Rudesheim Schloss Restaurant for dinner! – -Great German food, wine not beer (Rudesheim being the quintessential Rhine Valley wine town), band, dancing, & singing, games both drinking & musical & just silly fun with patrons attempting to play instruments while leading everyone parading behind them between tables through the dining rooms! – – A great time! The wine helped!

          Siegfried’s Mechanical Musical Instrument Museum in Rudesheim was a personal treat! There we saw & heard self-playing calliopes & musical contraptions dating from the 1920’s & 1800’s, all the way back to 1790! (See next photo). Geri loved the building’s beautiful exterior & façade.

        Listening inside the museum to these calliopes, & other mechanical instruments, player pianos, musical boxes, & old record players, I had to contain myself not to breakout pretending to conduct the “Seybold-Akkordeon-Jazz Orchestrion”! (Instrument #19 in the photo) We wisely purchased two CDs in the gift shop which featured 21 of these instruments. Some of them are pictured here from the CD program notes.

         Mainz is synonymous with Johannes Guttenberg, his printing press of 1455, & the first printed Bible. As we stand next to this “modern” printing press at the Guttenberg Museum, you can see a small model of Guttenberg’s printing press, left center. A life-size model of the Guttenberg printing press is in the museum’s main hall (photos not permitted).

          Picturesque Heidelberg along the River Neckar & Old Bridge below, taken from the ruined Castle or Schloss. The University of Heidelbreg & its students make this a lively place to be. Heidelberg served as headquarters for American troops from 1945 to as recent as 2014!

        The imposing ruins of Heidelberg Castle or The Schloss tower magnificently atop the city streets. It stands among the most important Renaissance structures north of the Alps.

        Permit but one “selfie” of Heidelberg beer! Geri tried the Bananenweizen & I had a Kirsch Weizen! We both had been to Heidelberg “in days of old,” 40 some years ago! Cheers to Heidelberg!!!

         La Petite France district of picturesque (again!) Strasbourg, France, with its half-timbered houses, quaint shops, bistros, & waterfront canals. – -Situated on the border of France & Germany on the River Ill.

The Klipfel Winery in the Alsace countryside in Barr, France.

 

 

Cuckoo Clocks & Steins!

     Breisach, Germany, is the gateway into Germany’s magnificent Black Forest region. It is a truly gorgeous countryside of mountains & valleys lush with farm fields nestled below vast trees. At the “House of Black Forest” shop you are greeted by the old master clock-maker himself.

        Geri was fascinated by the house-size cuckoo clock, next to the shop, that really worked & cuckooed with life-size, moving figurines.

          Geri had no trouble making her selection & purchase of a fine cuckoo clock to carry, not mail home!

 

 

         And I HAD TO PURCHASE a stein to add to my German beer stein collection of 106 steins back home! But this #107 was the FIRST brand new stein not purchased in an antique shop in the USA! – -I carried the stein home too!

          Our last stop was Colmar, France, before disembarkation in Basel. Yes, “picturesque plus” with half-timbered houses! Colmar is famous as the hometown of Frederic Bartholdi, sculptor of the Statue of Liberty gifted by France to America! The town is aplenty with Bartholdi statues in the public area.

The Farewell Gala Dinner on-board the Felicity…time to say goodbye.

 

 

        Excuse us for living, but this was the greatest!

Comments: Please, after the Itinerary below!

Itinerary

Romantic Rhine – From Amsterdam to Basel 2015

Day 1 (Oct 04, 2015): Arrive in Amsterdam, Holland (Embarkation).
Welcome to Amsterdam! Holland’s sophisticated, modern capital has a rich and fascinating history. This delightful 700-year-old city with its elegant and classic architecture, cafés, and restaurants has a distinct ambiance. The streets, squares, and canals—not to mention the bike paths throughout the city—make for a vibrant atmosphere, and with over 60 museums, Amsterdam has the highest museum density in the world. Perhaps you would like to take an optional excursion to Zaanse Schans with its traditional houses and Dutch craft workshops. This afternoon, board your river cruise vessel and meet your crew at an evening welcome reception.(D)

Day 2 (Oct 05, 2015): Amsterdam.
There is no better way to see Amsterdam than by CANAL BOAT, cruising through the elegant grachten lined with stately homes dating back to Amsterdam’s “Golden Age.” There’s free time in the city this afternoon—you might like to join an optional biking tour (weather permitting). Later, bid tot ziens (farewell) to Holland and set sail for Germany. (B,L,D)

Day 3 (Oct 06, 2015): Cologne, Germany.
Today, enjoy a peaceful morning of cruising before reaching Cologne in the afternoon. One of Germany’s largest cities and capital of the Rhineland, Cologne straddles both sides of the Rhine, and is known for its soaring, twin-steepled gothic cathedral. Choose between an included GUIDED CITY WALK or JEWISH HERITAGE WALK. The Old Town abounds with cafés, shops, and taverns. Be sure to try a Kölsch pale lager, locally brewed in Cologne for over a hundred years! (B,L,D)

Day 4 (Oct 07, 2015): Koblenz–Rhine Gorge–Rüdesheim.
Situated at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle Rivers, 2,000-year-old Koblenz is the cultural and business center of the Middle Rhine region. Here, join a Local Guide for a WALKING TOUR of the city that reveals an eventful past through its castles, fortress walls, towers, squares, and monuments. The dramatic RHINE GORGE is the most beautiful stretch of river. Here, ancient castles stand sentry on lofty cliffs rising 400 feet above the waters. Cruise past the legendary rock of the Lorelei, where echoes of enchanted siren song lured unwitting sailors to their doom. In Rüdesheim, the quintessential Rhine Valley wine town, visit SIEGFRIED’S MECHANICAL MUSICAL INSTRUMENT MUSEUM, where you’ll see and hear a large collection of self-playing calliopes and music boxes from the 18th to the early 20th centuries. Enjoy a SPECIAL TREAT before returning to your ship for dinner. (B,L,D)

Day 5 (Oct 08, 2015): Mainz. Excursion to Heidelberg
. Strategically located at the confluence of the Rhine and Main Rivers is Mainz, with “civilized” origins dating back to around 38 BC. Today, this is Germany’s largest and most important wine market. Join your Local Guide for a GUIDED WALK through the Altstadt (Old Town) with its many intriguing shops and the whimsical Fastnachtsbrunnen (Carnival Fountain) on the Schillerplatz, a tribute to the jesters at the city’s annual Carnival celebration. Gutenberg, father of modern printing, was born here, and you’ll visit the captivating GUTENBERG MUSEUM. After lunch, travel to Heidelberg, home to the oldest university in Germany. With a Local Guide, visit the imposing ruins of HEIDELBERG CASTLE, towering magnificently over the city and among the most important Renaissance structures north of the Alps. You’ll also see the famed GREAT VAT, the “World’s Largest Wine Barrel.” At nearly 23 feet high and 28 feet wide, the cask holds over 58,000 gallons of wine and has a dance floor built on top of it! (B,L,D)

Day 6 (Oct 09, 2015): Strasbourg, France.
Situated on the border of France and Germany, Strasbourg blends the cultures of both countries in a delightful way. As capital of the Alsace region and seat of the Council of Europe and European Parliament, it is without a doubt an important city that manages to retain its historic charm. On your GUIDED SIGHTSEEING TOUR, visit the monumental red-sandstone GOTHIC CATHEDRAL with its ancient murals, stained-glass windows, and fascinating astronomical clock, as well as the magical LA PETITE FRANCE district, home to half-timber houses, quaint shops, inviting bistros, and a waterfront promenade. Also spend time exploring Place Kléber, a large historic square in the heart of the city, and Place Gutenberg in the heart of medieval Strasbourg, which features a statue of the inventor of the printing press. An optional excursion into the Alsace wine country is available today. After dinner tonight, enjoy an onboard WOODCARVING demonstration. (B,L,D)

Day 7 (Oct 10, 2015): Breisach, Germany. Excursion to the Black Forest.
Located at the foot of Kaiserstuhl Mountain on the French-German border, Breisach is the gateway to Germany’s BLACK FOREST region, an area of unrivaled natural beauty with its forests of thick pine trees. The area got its name because the forests are so dense that local residents described them as black. Surely the most well-known products from this region are Black Forest ham, Black Forest cherry cake, and cuckoo clocks. You may opt for a visit to the workshop of a local woodcarver who produces clocks and other carvings, or to the open-air Museum of Vogtsbauernhof to see how life was lived in this area centuries ago. (B,L,D)

Day 8 (Oct 11, 2015): Basel, Switzerland (Disembarkation).
Your vacation ends with breakfast this morning. (B)